🇮🇹 Rome → 🇮🇱 Tel Aviv · 2 weeks

Eat at Abu Hassan in Jaffa (1 HaDolphin St) before noon — they run out of hummus by midday and close up. Get the masabacha with a fried egg on top and eat standing at the counter like everyone else.

Walk the Promenade from Gordon Beach to Jaffa Port at sunset on a Friday — the city empties for Shabbat and the golden light on the old port is extraordinary. Grab a cold Goldstar from a kiosk and watch the fishermen.

Explore the Bauhaus Center on Dizengoff Street and then take yourself on a self-guided walk down Rothschild Boulevard — over 4,000 White City buildings are UNESCO listed. Go early morning before the heat hits.

Carmel Market (Shuk HaCarmel) is best on Friday mornings when vendors sell off produce cheaply before Shabbat. Skip the tourist stalls at the entrance and head to the deeper produce section for cheap sabra fruit and fresh-pressed pomegranate juice.