🇮🇹 Naples → 🇬🇷 Thessaloniki · 1 week

Rotunda of Galerius: arrive just after opening at 8am when it's empty — the 4th-century mosaics glow in the morning light and you'll have the space to yourself before tour groups arrive around 10am.

Modiano Market (Agora Modiano): go on a weekday morning and head straight to the butchers' and fishmongers' inner hall — the prepared food stalls at the back serve grilled offal and fish soup that locals eat standing up for under €5.

Ano Poli at golden hour: walk up through the Upper Town's cobbled lanes to the Byzantine walls for a panorama over the gulf — the neighbourhood is largely touristed, but the northeastern corner near Eptapyrgio fortress stays quiet and authentic.

Trigona Elenidis in Panorama: make the 20-minute taxi ride to this hilltop suburb for the city's most famous bougatsa and trigona pastries, stuffed with cream so fresh they collapse if you wait too long to eat them.