🇬🇧 London Gatwick → 🇮🇹 Naples · 1 week

Eat at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele on Via Cesare Sersale — order the Margherita or Marinara (those are the only options) and arrive before noon to avoid a 45-minute queue. It costs under €6 and is widely considered the definitive Neapolitan pizza on the planet.

Visit the Fontanelle Cemetery in the Materdei neighbourhood — a vast cave packed with 40,000 skulls. It's free, rarely crowded, and tells a deeply strange story about Neapolitan cult worship of anonymous bones. Go on a weekday morning.

The National Archaeological Museum (MANN) holds the greatest collection of Roman art on earth — including explicit frescoes from Pompeii locked in the 'Secret Cabinet' (ask staff to open it). Book online to skip the queue; Tuesday morning is the quietest slot.

Walk through the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter) at dusk when the street food vendors come out — try 'cuoppo' (a paper cone of fried seafood or vegetables) from a street stall for €3-4. This grid of narrow alleys is the real Naples, not the waterfront.