🇹🇷 Istanbul → 🇭🇷 Zadar · 2 weeks

Sit on the steps of the Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) at dusk — the sound changes with the swell, and the 20-minute window before sunset when the Sun Salutation disc also activates is genuinely magical. Come in shoulder season (May or September) to avoid crowds.

Walk the Roman Forum at 8am before tour groups arrive — the columns of St Donatus Basilica glow amber in the morning light and you'll have the square almost to yourself. The basilica hosts summer classical concerts worth booking ahead.

Take the 15-minute Jadrolinija ferry to the island of Ugljan for a half-day. The village of Kali has a fishing harbour, a konoba serving grilled fish for lunch, and zero tour buses. Return ticket is under €5.

Seek out Pošip and Grk white wines from the nearby islands at any wine bar on Ul. Špire Brusine — these indigenous Croatian grape varieties are barely known outside Dalmatia and are spectacular with local cheese. Pet Bunara restaurant has one of the best lists.