🇮🇪 Dublin → 🇵🇹 Lisbon · 2 weeks

Attend a real fado show at a small house in Mouraria — the neighbourhood where fado was born — rather than the polished tourist venues in Bairro Alto. Tasca do Chico on Rua do Diário de Notícias seats only 30 people; book weeks ahead. The music starts around 9:30pm and goes until midnight.

Tram 28E is genuinely useful transport (not just a tourist attraction) for crossing the historic hills — but ride it on a weekday morning before 9am to avoid the worst crowding. It runs through Graça, Alfama, Baixa, Chiado, and Estrela: essentially the entire historic city.

Pastéis de Belém — the original custard tart bakery in Belém — has been using the same secret recipe since 1837. Yes, there's a queue, but it moves fast. Order them at the counter dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar, eat them immediately while still warm. The experience at a marble-topped table in the back rooms is worth the 10-minute wait.

The Miradouro da Graça — not the more famous São Pedro de Alcântara or Santa Catarina — gives the best view of the castle and Alfama rooftops at sunset, and attracts far more locals than tourists. Bring wine from the corner shop and arrive 45 minutes before sunset.