🇳🇱 Amsterdam → 🇦🇷 Buenos Aires · 2 weeks

Attend a real milonga (tango dance hall) rather than a tourist show — Salon Canning in Abasto or La Catedral in Almagro are where porteños actually dance. Arrive after 11pm when the serious dancers show up, and sit at the bar to watch before joining.

Book lunch (not dinner) at a proper parrilla — Don Julio in Palermo is the classic pick, and they open at noon when the queues are manageable. The bife de chorizo is the cut to order; skip the entradas and save room.

Visit Recoleta Cemetery early on a weekday morning before tour groups arrive. The mausoleum of Eva Perón is tucked deep inside and easy to miss — follow the Duarte family signs. The cemetery is free and opens at 8am.

Do Sunday at the San Telmo market (Feria de San Telmo) — but avoid the tourist-facing stalls on Defensa Street and head to the side streets and indoor section of the covered market for antiques, leather goods, and local prices.